Richard writes:
We are absolutely loving Europe. Every place we visit we seem to like more than the last, and we have only just started this leg of the trip.
I write this blog from Sarajevo, an absolutely fascinating city awash with history and infamy. Despite growing up with the Balkan conflict plastered all over the news, I have to admit my knowledge of the complex causes and consequences of the terrible wars between the Balkan countries in the 1990s was pretty sketchy. In an attempt to put this right, we followed the recommendation of our Lonely Planet and signed up to a three hour tour that would explain the politics of the region as well as showing some of the most significant places in Sarajevo, during its siege between 1992 and 1995 (the longest ever siege of a city in Europe's history).
The tour was fantastic. Our 28 year old female guide was aged between six and nine during the siege of Sarajevo, and her personal memories and reflections really made a difference to our understanding of the sheer horror of living in Sarajevo between those years. For those unaware of what the siege entailed, the city of Sarajevo is in a valley completely surrounded by mountains. These mountains were almost exclusively occupied by Serbian forces who day after day shelled the city, for nearly four years. Within the city itself positions were held by Bosnian Serbs (citizens living in Bosnia, but considered themselves of Serbian nationality) who fired upon civilians (including women and children) attempting to go about their daily business. Our guide explained that she lived very close to what was described as sniper alley, and it was common for victims to be shot in the legs to entice others to assist them, before being shot themselves, to increase casualty numbers. What I found particularly disturbing was the fact that many residents of Sarajevo, who identified themselves as Serbs rather than Bosnians turned so quickly and violently on their neighbours, all in the name of a "greater Serbia". The pain and wounds of war still remain, even after 18 years of peace, with an uneasy coexistence of the three main ethnic groups in Sarajevo, of Bosniaks (Bosnian muslims), Bosnian Serbs and Bosnian Croats. Our guide explained that when meeting a Bosnian Serb, who was alive during the siege, most Bosniaks, would not ask what they did during the period, as the truth might be too painful.
During the tour, we visited the medieval fort above the city, that superbly demonstrated how exposed the city was to shelling, various cemeteries that buried the over 11,000 souls that were killed during the siege and the tunnel dug by the residents to enable much needed supplies to be brought in from outside the city. The tour was concluded by a short video that vividly demonstrated the horror and violence of the siege.
For myself, one of the most interesting aspects of the tour, was not just hearing of the war itself, but the political truce drawn up to end the conflict. The Dayton agreement, divided Bosnia into two regions, a Bosnian republic home to Bosniaks and Bosnian Croats and a Serbian Federation home to the Bosnian Serbs. Each region has amongst other things, separate public holidays and police forces, whilst sharing a currency and a flag. Even more complicated, is the presidency of the country. At all times, there are three presidents, one for each ethnic group. Every decision that goes before the "president" has to be agreed by all three. They each take it in turns every eight months to be the figurehead president, which involves representing the country abroad, but this role does not have any greater power. A very very different political system to what we are accustomed to, and one borne of a desire for peace and compromise in the face of war.
Other than learning of Bosnia's recent bloody past, we also visited the spot that is probably the most infamous in all of Sarajevo history . . . the site of the murder of Archduke Franz Ferdinand. Right in the centre of the city, is the very spot that with justification can claim to be where World War I started. On June 28th 1914, a Serbian member of the Black Hand organisation, Gavrilo Princip, murdered Archduke Franz Ferdinand, the heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne, and started a chain of events that saw Europe descend into war and bloodshed until 1918. I was absolutely fascinated and awestruck to be standing in a place I had read so much about through my studies of history.
There is more to Sarajevo than war however. Sarajevo in 2014, attracts swarms of tourists, and has an abundance of drinking and eating venues; many of which we frequented! The old town is beautiful, with narrow cobbled streets and cute ramshackled buildings. It had a genuinely lovely feel, even if the people were not quite as friendly as we had been promised by travellers we had met that had been there already. This is not to say they were unfriendly, just not as friendly as the Serbians and Bulgarians we had met in their respective capital cities. A few buildings still require repairs after damage sustained in the siege, but on the whole the city has been completely rebuilt.
I mentioned the friendliness of the Serbs in Belgrade. Belgrade was a very happy surprise for me. I had read of an unattractive city, and I knew the Serbs are meant to have many similarities with the Russians (which didn't bode well on the friendliness front). I left the city, bound for Sarajevo, with a completely different image of a city full of smiles, friendliness and beautiful architecture. Every time we produced a map and accompanied it with a furrowed brow, a local would appear from nowhere, and in perfect English, ask if we were lost and help direct us the right way.
In terms of sightseeing, we didn't do a huge amount in Belgrade, but we more than made up for this drinking cheap beer and eating ice cream, pizza and the local sausage specialities. Restaurants, bars and cafes were everywhere all brimming with tourists and locals alike, with it appearing that everyone was stuffing themselves with as much food and drink as they possibly could. This was puzzling for me. Despite the levels of consumption however, Belgrade is one of the thinnest and beautiful cities I have been too. The vast majority of both men and women wore incredible physiques and were disgustingly good looking. Where on earth do they put the calories? Any more time in the city, and I would have required a new camera with an extra wide lens, just to get my bloated face in a photo. Whatever Belgradians are doing, to keep the spare timber at bay, I want some of it, as the food in the city was out of this world. Casey was in agreement too, with every visit to a cafe, resulting in desires for iced coffees filled with ice cream, fruits, whilst topped with cream and chocolate.
The sightseeing we did do, involved visiting the city's only mosque as well as the largest Orthodox cathedral in the world. On the theme of the Balkan war we also saw the remains of the Serbian Ministry of Defence buildings, that were almost completely destroyed by the NATO bombing of Belgrade in 1999. Probably the biggest highlight (for me at least) was a visit to Tito's mausoleum. Having paid our respects to so many communist leaders so far on this trip, a visit to see Tito's grave was mandatory. Considering he ruled Yugoslavia for 35 years, his mausoleum and the museum dedicated to him and his wife was actually very understated, with very few visitors. I enjoyed it all the same. I also bought at the museum, what is possibly my favourite souvenir of the whole trip. A Tito bust money box. Whether it challenges the Mao alarm clock bought in China, I am not sure, but I am definitely very smitten with the luminous blue creation that I purchased in the gift shop!
Our European tour travels to Croatia, Montenegro, Macedonia and Kosovo next, all of which I am looking forward to immensely. Time will tell whether they continue to outdo the places visited so far in Europe!
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